Palma rewards a gentle rhythm. I swim before the city wakes, I eat when the market is buzzing, and I keep the afternoon open for the sea. This is a simple three day plan that uses short walks, quick taxis, and one boat day. I chose places with honest cooking, calm rooms, and water that looks like glass.
Day 1, Old Town and a Swim
I base myself between the Old Town and Santa Catalina. I can walk to La Seu in ten minutes, I can cross the market in five, and I can be at the water soon after. Morning coffee is La Molienda on Carrer del Bisbe Campins, because they care about grind size and the toast sits warm under a thick slice of tomato. I book a light lunch at El Camino on Carrer de Can Brondo, because the bar seating is perfect for one or two, the tortilla arrives glossy, and the staff guide you toward the fish that just landed.
For a first swim I go to Illetas or Cala Comtessa. Illetas has water like glass by late morning and a simple chiringuito for cold water. Comtessa sits in a cove with pines and a small kiosk. Both are close enough that a taxi works better than a car. I carry a small towel and light sandals. I avoid heavy bags, since many streets end right at the sea.
- Coffee, La Molienda, tidy pour, friendly bar, consistent espresso.
- Lunch, El Camino, order tortilla, artichokes when in season, and whatever whole fish they suggest.
- Swim, Illetas for easy access, Comtessa for a quieter cove.
Day 2, Boat Day from Palma
I book a skipper out of Port Calanova or the Real Club Náutico. A skipper keeps the day calm and lets me focus on water, snacks, and photos. The plan is simple, two coves and an unhurried anchor. I ask for Cala Vella or Portals Vells if the wind is gentle, since both have bright sand under the hull and water that looks almost unreal. I bring reef safe sunscreen, a hat, and light layers since the breeze cools down after long swims.
How I set up the boat
Day 3, Bakeries then a Slow Beach
Palma takes its baking seriously. I start with Ca’n Joan de S’Aigo, a room with wood panels and marble tables that has served ensaïmada since the nineteenth century. I order a classic ensaïmada with apricot, and a hot chocolate if a cloud crosses the sun. For a second stop I like Fornet de la Soca near Plaça Weyler, where they bring back old recipes and use local almonds with care. If you want a box to take home, Horno Santo Cristo wraps it neatly and the pastry travels well.
After bakeries I go for one last swim. Cala Major is close and easy, Illetas is a short ride and calmer, and Portixol gives you a promenade with cafés and a quick coffee before the airport.
Where I eat and why it works
El Camino, Carrer de Can Brondo
Counter seating means no fuss, the tortilla has a soft center, the fish is chosen by the team that knows what arrived that morning. I go early, I ask what is best that day, and I keep the order small so I can walk after.
Tast Club, near Passeig de Mallorca
Hidden entrance, warm room, and a vermouth list that suits a slow evening. I share croquettes and a plate of Iberian pork, then I walk back through Santa Catalina.
Mercat de Santa Catalina
Lunch inside the market feels alive. I pick a bar with a short queue, I order whatever looks bright and fresh, and I sit where I can watch knives and smiles move in rhythm.
Ca’n Joan de S’Aigo
I go for ensaïmada and almond ice cream. The room has history, service is kind, and the pastry tastes like morning sugar and air.
Where I stay
Old Town near La Calatrava gives quiet lanes and a short walk to the cathedral. Santa Catalina gives markets in the morning and dinner at night. If you want dawn swims, pick Illetas or Portixol and ride into town for the evening.
Essentials that keep the weekend calm
Make your weekend seamless
Book cleanings, restocking, airport transfers, and a boat day in the Vela app. Arrive to a fridge that suits you.
